Tūpiki Trust March 2023 Newsletter
Grants for eight Projects which will make a difference
When the Tupiki Trust was formed a little over a year ago we had a dream of raising funds which could be used to support the widest possible range of climbing related projects across Aotearoa. And thanks to the generosity of our founding chair, the late John Nankervis, and the many subsequent donors who have given so generously, that dream is fast becoming a reality. In March 2022 we gave out our first grants, all to New Zealand Alpine Club related projects, but in March 2023, in our latest grant round, we were pleased to receive a diverse range of applications and to date we have agreed to provide grants for eight of these. We are confident each will make valuable contribution to the outdoor recreation environment. Here are brief summaries of seven of the projects plus an update on three already funded.
Adventure Writing School
The New Zealand Mountain Film & Book Festival is in its 21st year celebrating adventurous sports and lifestyles through a seven-day live event in Wanaka and Queenstown. As part of the book festival, they offer a two-day weekend, specialist Adventure Writing School for up to ten participants. This year's tutor is renowned outdoors author Shaun Barnett and he will deliver in-depth tutorials, Q&A sessions, and opportunities for the students to workshop their own writing. This will give them a unique opportunity to grow their skills and take steps towards publication of their adventure, nature, and outdoor writing. Tūpiki Trust has provided $1000 to support the school.
Leaning Lodge redevelopment
Leaning Lodge Trust has made excellent progress constructing the new 10 bunk lodge on the Rock and Pillar Range. As we wrote in the last Tūpiki Trust newsleter, the new lodge replaces an earlier attempt at refurbishment and will include entrance foyer, kitchen and dining facilities, 10 bunks and a deck overlooking the Strath Taieri valley.
By 31 March the LL Trust team had made very good progress, and the new building has exterior cladding, most of the deck and all underfloor insultation completed. After Easter a work party is planned with the objective of completing the deck, installing the internal insulation, and lining and tidying up the site. All that will remain to do is to move the bunks and kitchen benches from the old hut. LL trust are hopeful those jobs are completed before winter weather really sets in. Tūpiki Trust provided $25,000 to support the Trust’s successful fundraising.
Photo, Phillip Lindsay
Retro-bolting Castledowns crag
Southland climber Ben Shunfenthal is leading a project aimed at updating and improving anchoring and safety at Castledowns, an important Southland rock climbing area just outside of Dipton. Castledowns is an amazing area with many large limestone spires and boulders and although the area has been climbed on for the past 25 years, it is overdue for an upgrade to address two key issues.
Only a small portion of the rock has been developed and the original bolts are old and were installed using outdated technology now deemed unsafe and inappropriate for this type of softer rock.
In those days, galvanized metal bolts were used, and cheap galvanized chains were fitted to these bolts as a hanger/bolt setup. Not only were these anchor options not rated for the dynamic forces associated with rock climbing falls – the galvanized metal also reacts with the limestone causing long white streaks to form over the rock creating both safety and environmental concerns. Also, several the top anchors are not in the most ideal place for setting up top ropes and often cause a significant amount of rope drag or rub over sharp edges. These anchors are being moved to more appropriate spots.
As part of this project old anchors are being removed and “glue-in” anchors are being installed in line with current rock-climbing standards. This will ensure that the Castledowns becomes a more nationally recognised and safe climbing destination for all. With the TLC it will receive, Castledowns has the potential to become a premier climbing destination and Tūpiki Trust has provided a grant of $4569 to support this worthwhile project.
Mr Explorer Douglas reprint
Heritage Hokitika has provided a range of heritage initiatives since 1988 including organizing a 2016 reprint of Graham Langton’s version of John Pascoe’s book, Mr Explorer Douglas. That reprint is out of stock and Heritage Hokitika will now work with Canterbury University Press on a 2023 reprint of this widely admired publication. Mr Explorer Douglas is a landmark publication – a vital record of mid-19th century exploration and mapping of Westland. It provides an insight into the environment and ecology of the region, describes the immense challenges faced by people who undertook those early mountaineering expeditions. Tūpiki Trust has provided $3450 towards the cost of this project.
Whitbourn Bridge reinstatement
A bridge across Dart River into the Whitbourn Valley will restore trans alpine access into the Snowdrift Range and the Snowball Glacier. The original bridge was often used for day trippers from Dart Hut to access the Whitbourn valley. The replacement bridge will be based on a traditional 6-wire NZFS design that will provide access for a wide range of users.
The Backcountry Trust will project manage the design and installation of the bridge using its existing volunteers (one of whom volunteers his engineering expertise). The bridge design will be approved by the Department of Conservation’s head engineer and then installed by the Backcountry Trust’s selected bridge team. Tūpiki Trust will provide $20,000 to support this project which is targeted to occur during summer of 2023/24.
South Huxley bivouac upgrade
The Backcountry Trust is preparing to restore South Huxley Biv in Ruataniwha Conservation Park. This unique biv built in 1962 was last painted and given some patch-up maintenance in 2014 and was the very first project completed by the Backcountry Trust. At that time it was noted that there were a number of ongoing issues with this hut. The fire is currently not compliant and needs thoughtful restoration, the lead needs to be removed from the roofing and the biv is currently wired to rocks on the terrace and not on compliant foundations. South Huxley has been receiving steadily increasing use in recent years and because of its unique design – it is a gem, and it was agreed that it should be conserved to recognise its historic value. Tūpiki Trust will provide $8000 towards the project work which is planned for spring 2023.
NZAC webshop development
The New Zealand Alpine Club proposes to update their online Webshop to greatly improve the way you can buy products like guidebooks, merchandise and climbing hardware, access membership services and book huts online. They are planning to update underlying technology and the look and feel of the Webshop so that it matches the new website and connects to the membership database.
Once this project is completed there will be a one-step logon which will give secure access to the NZAC members area, the Webshop and the ClimbNZ websites. This will deliver a seamless experience for both members and non-members and Tūpiki Trust will contribute $10,000 towards the project which is scheduled to commence in August and completion by year end 2023.
Research for Aotearoa 25
Wellington mountaineer Paul Maxim is working on Aotearoa 25, a history of New Zealand mountaineering told through 25 selected ascents. He started research for the book in 2018 and is currently halfway through chapter 16. Paul’s approach involves detailed archival research and travel to meet and interview leading climbers. To ensure this important history is captured, Paul has already visited and interviewed Bill Beaven, Bill Gordon, Allan Berry, Peter Farrell, Murray Jones and Graeme Dingle, sometimes visiting and interviewed each more than once. He is also bringing together a wonderful collection of photographs, many of which have never been published before.
From his detailed interview notes Paul has already created excellent articles, such as the Bill Beaven interview which is available on the NZAC website and he is currently working on a write-up of his interview with Bill Gordon, who has since died. The Tūpiki Trust has provided $10,000 towards the cost of his for research, and professional services such as design, editing and photo/slide scanning and enhancement.
South Huxley Biv, 2020. Rob Brown photo
Aspiring Hut redevelopment
After several years of intensive planning, preparation and construction, the new look, 34 bunk Aspiring Hut was officially opened on Friday 31 March with a very cheerful crowd of 60 people present. Short speeches were provided by Ross Cullen representing NZAC, Randall Aspinall, project overseer Derek Crombie and site liaison person Stuart Thorne. Chas Tanner cut the ribbon and offered good vibes to all future users of the hut.
The event provided an opportunity to recognize the outstanding work of many people and organisations who contributed preparing the way for approval to proceed, making the project happen. That list includes geologists, designers, builders, cooks, site supervisors, tractor drivers, Aspinall family, helicopter pilots, bunk builder, hearth engraver, donors large and small and many more. Their efforts have resulted in a superb new building with high structural strength that will welcome visitors for many decades ahead.
The Aspiring Hut redevelopment is the largest ever tackled by New Zealand Alpine Club, and will ensure that this key asset continues to play its part in the Club’s Matukituki Valley network for many decades to come.
NZAC is grateful to the many organisations and individuals who have made grants or loans to enable this $1.3m project to be completed. Tūpiki Trust was pleased to announce that we will provide a further $100,000 to help close the gap between the Club’s successful fundraising and the project’s final cost, in addition to the $200,000 commitment we made in 2022.
Image: Chas Tanner cutting the ribbon at Aspiring Hut
ClimbNZ Development
From its creation in 2010 the www.ClimbNZ database and website has been maintained by NZAC with extensive volunteer input. It is now the major online repository of information about climbing routes, mountains and crags in New Zealand. NZAC and Tūpiki Trust are jointly funding phase II of a $46,000 project that will ensure system security and stability via an upgrade from Drupal 7 to Drupal 10. Improved usability will come from a full redesign of the site and place hierarchies along with better search options including maps, and up to date access Information. The objectives are to secure existing information, lift engagement and enlarge the diversity of users. Work is progressing steadily on the project and is scheduled for completion by 30 June 2023. A third phase for the project to deliver additional features including user logbooks is likely to be scheduled for 2023-2024.